Som man bäddar får man ligga

As you make the bed, you get to lie down

In many greenhouses, the fixed growing beds form the backbone of the green environment. But how do you actually plan a good growing bed? In this post, Karin Eliasson - a grower with greenhouses in the Stockholm archipelago - gives her advice.

Tulips and spinach are peeking out of the greenhouse beds. Far down at the bottom of the deepest growing beds it's still a bit frozen, but on the surface I can sow now – dill, pak choi, lettuce, parsley.

Why grow in fixed beds at all, you might ask? Yes, for me it was an easy choice because I want to grow a lot and big and be able to organize smart irrigation. All that would have been more complicated if I had only grown in pots. Even in greenhouses where there is significantly less growing than in mine, I think fixed beds have a role to play – they give the room a calm setting.



Even in a dining room like this, lush beds create a calm and beautiful setting. They are usually made of the same material as the base, but beds can also be made of corten steel, wood or brick.

When you are planning your greenhouse, it is time to think about the fixed beds. I usually recommend a soil depth of 40 cm and a bed that is no narrower than 30 cm, then you have great opportunities to grow a variety of vegetables; tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, physalis, chili…anything works. If you want to be able to grow a front and a back row in the bed, you can increase the width to 40 cm. If you have dreams of fig trees, apricots and other things a little more tree-like, it is a good idea to give one or two more decimeters in depth.


Spacious growing beds provide the opportunity for a curtain of greenery with a front flowering border.
That said – it IS possible to grow even in narrower and shallower beds. You will have to adapt your cultivation a bit: focus on plants with less extensive root systems, such as lettuce, radishes, arugula, perhaps low chili varieties. Tomatoes can also work in a narrow bed, but if it is also shallow, then you are referred to bush tomatoes. The soil will dry out faster and need to be fertilized more often because all buffering reserves are smaller. Experiment to find out what works best. Shame on anyone who gives up.


Proof that even narrow beds are useful. In the picture on the right you can see how a high base allows for a deep and spacious bed. Here the front edge of the bed is made of wood, which gives a soft and warm impression in the greenhouse.

With a focus on a good soil

This spring I am mostly focused on soil improvement. I am one of those who do not change the soil in the beds every year but instead try to work with soil improvement and rest, to get the soil to work over time. The early sowing I am starting now, of leafy greens, I usually sow in existing soil and then water with nutrients until it is time to harvest. It is before the tomatoes and other long-term crops are planted in the greenhouse that I do the major soil improvement. Then I dig in bokashi or alfalfa, add compost and composted manure or seaweed. I need to fill the beds with both nutrients and soil. There is almost nothing I like as much as grabbing around new soil-rich material in the growing bed, you really feel how the power returns.


Rest then? Where does it come in. Yes, occasionally the soil needs a rest from certain plants. In the greenhouse, the challenge is primarily plants that belong to the genus Solanum. This includes tomatoes, chilies, peppers and eggplants. If you grow these plants in the same soil year after year, there is a risk that diseases will take hold. So occasionally the soil is allowed to rest and the solanum plants are moved into pots or grow bags. Or simply not to grow at all and make room for something else.

Properly fixed beds make it easy to achieve a good soil climate. It's not nearly as easy in a confined pot. In my beds, there is mostly crawling and swarming all the time. Of course, it's all the compost I use that brings worms and other helpers, but the size of the bed is important because it makes it easier to maintain even moisture and a moderately warm/cool soil. A narrow bed both dries out, freezes and overheats much faster. And then the swarm moves towards more pleasant places to live.


Here, the greenhouse grower has placed a plank on the bed wall and has a pot shelf in the winter. In another greenhouse, the edge of the wall has been permanently fitted with wood and created plenty of seating.

Yes, I like fixed growing beds, they are like a part of the greenhouse and create a wealth of possibilities. If you are thinking about how to plan your beds, here is a short summary to remember:

  • For good growing flexibility - make sure the beds are about 40 cm deep and at least 30 cm wide.
  • Make sure all beds have drainage so that water can pass out, even in a greenhouse, accidents can happen and a hose can leak, for example.
  • Use a soil for greenhouses or large pots. It should have a lot of structure in it and be rich in humus.
  • Improve your soil with humus and fertilizer every spring and also during the season, for example through cover crops with grass.
  • Add good microlife and a stable bacterial flora through regular compost and bokashi.
  • Does the soil in the beds need a rest – cover the soil and put beautiful pots in the bed for a year. See the beds as an opportunity for variation – use them imaginatively and freely!